October 23, 2005
Bear Creek Spire - North East Ridge
Joe, Rich, Eric O
Bear Creek Spire (13,713') looms above Dade Lake on a pristine late October morning.
One of the many peaks that Rich has raved about nearly every time we have ever been on an adventure together is Bear Creek Spire. He claimed the North East Ridge route would be an uber classic ascent and (more importantly) within our abilities. With the Indian Summer in full effect this year, we felt good about giving it a go in late October. It felt even better when super mountain man, Eric O. decided to join us on a classic route that he had scaled in one variation or another a couple of times in his illustrious past. Eric and I had traded e-mails and messages over the last few years as telemarktips regulars, but had yet to meet in person. Since he had just moved from Mammoth to Truckee, it suddenly made perfect sense for us to car pool together from Tahoe down to the Mosquito Flat trailhead at the northern end of Little Lakes Valley, where we would rendez-vous with the man of Steele. After an enjoyable drive in the stark darkness with a peach slice moon, filled with good company and long tales, we arrived to crash in our toasty sleeping bags on the cold parking lot pavement.
The next morning brought a breakfast of pop tarts and tang (I may have even spotted that peanut butter in the toothpaste tube trick too). We dressed warm in the freezing crisp Fall air for out hike due South to the head of the Little Lakes Valley where BCS stands grand and tall, awaiting our arrival.
Photography credits go to all three of us.
Myself and Eric staring South (left). Eric and Rich were regularly pointing out all the majestic peaks and passes, as well as showing me where to get some chicken while skiing here and walls of Rubies that may have only be skied by one tele-ripper ever (Eric O). We were all captivated by the clearest reflection any of us could remember in Long Lake (right):
The high alpine world was peacefully basking in it's last few days of sun before winters long and deep cloak of snow turned the sparkling golden ground into a world of white. The few inches of early season snow made for slow and cautious travel on the rocks above Dade Lake, probably adding hours onto our total trip duration.
Once we reached the base of the climb, the aesthetically appealing route of the North East Ridge twisted above us towards the summit. On the right skyline was the 5th class North Arete route, which Eric had free soloed in the recent past....he was a good guy to have along for Rich and I.
Looking towards Pine Creek and Mt. Tom:
And the catharsis begins:
Well, I stand up next to a mountain
And I chop it down with the edge of my hand
I can’t go for being twice as nice
I can’t go for just repeating the some old lines
Oh, the exposure (and beauty) at times:
And the occasional mandatory "Tea Bag" move:
Once we reached the juncture of the North Arete route, we were definitely feeling the 5th class nature, well at least Rich and I were. The exposure was huge on both sides of the ridge and the moves were sometimes risky, although they almost all had safe and secure holds. Thank god for that solid Sierra granite. We had decided not to bring ropes along. Instead we relied on our own abilities, reinforced by the calm and supportive words of Eric O for mental belays.
Something inside you is feelin’ like I do
We’ve said all there is to say
Baby, breakdown, go ahead give it to me
Eric and I on the so labeled "Don't tell my wife" ledge.
Goodbye, ruby tuesday
Who could hang a name on you?
And before we knew it we were standing on the summit plateau with just a tricky little summit block to ascend to finish off the climb. Eric went first, and showed us hacks how it's done.
I came to a high place of darkness and light.
The dividing line ran through the center of town
After soaking up the long and gorgeous views in the still and warm air, we began our descent. A few tricky moves off the top got us down to the scree slopes above the Cox Col.
We're going down, down in an earlier round
And Sugar, we're going down swinging
I'll be your number one with a bullet
A loaded God complex, cock it and pull it
Cox Col was simply the beginning of many miles and many hours of downward scree scrambling. It was securely reaffirmed again in my mind why I prefer to ski these peaks - this was the real suffering. The last 2 miles were stumbled through in the dark. While Rich and I ended up sharing the dim light from my headlamp, Eric just used his night vision and sped ahead.
On the road again
Just can't wait to get on the road again
The life I love is makin' music with my friends
And I can't wait to get on the road again
Eric and I made the mandatory stop at Roberto's in Mammoth for calorie replenishing burritos. According to my heart rate monitor I had burned over 11,000 calories in just under 12 hours! We were both sleepy but managed to stay awake the entire way with interesting conversations about tree houses, ski descents, childhoods and philosophy. Rich proved to be the true iron man of the trip with his epic 5 to 6 hour drive all the way back to Marin County - solo. BCS was also just the 2nd day of his epic weekend. You can read Rich's full account on his website www.tahoebackcountry.net.
One of the finest snow free days I've ever spent in the Sierras.