7/30/04 to 8/1/04
Seeking Solitude on the Matterhorn with Uncle Jack
Joe, Jack
Higher than Jack Kerouac (at least in elevation) - Summit of Matterhorn, July 31, 2004
Uncle Jack and I have quite a few common interests and passions; music, philosophies, writing and humor. But none have brought us together more successfully than our eternally memorable ventures into the mountains. When I was a teenager, Jack blew my eyes wide open when he went and climbed the 14,000' icy volcano that dominated his horizon from the time he was born. He piqued my interest in that same mountain, and we ended up climbing it together about 10 years later. It would be my first big mountain climb and my first huge ski descent. That mountain is still an intimate exaggeration to us both; Mount Shasta.
Since that trip up Shasta in 1997, Jack and I have merged paths many more times to climb California mountains. Be it a late afternoon rush up a smoky Mt. Tallac, or an extended multi day trip to the top of Mt. Whitney with Arin and Paul. We have had some outrageous trips in the mountains together.
Having climbed two of our biggest objectives in Shasta and Whitney, we wanted to climb another significant California peak.
Rewind 5 years ago, or so. Jack let me borrow one of his favorite works of literature, Jack Kerouac's "Dharma Bums". I enjoyed the book immensely, especially the part where they make a haphazard trip up Matterhorn Peak in the 50's. Japhy Ryder (Gary Snyder) is able to make it to the top, but Kerouac is forced to retreat short of the summit. The details of their trip are both humorous and inviting. Our relationship to the book, as well as a ski descent I had made on the peak in 1998, convinced us this would be a great place for Jack and I to seek some solitude. So we inked it on our calendars, invited Paul and Arin (who both unfortunately had other obligations), and eventually left Tahoe for the High Sierras.
Friday, July 30, 2004
We left my house in South Lake Tahoe around 1:00 PM. Cruising to the tunes of Jerry Garcia and the surreal sounds of Grey Folded - Dark Star, we arrived in Bridgeport to pick up our permit and buy a few last minute necessities. The summer sky was brilliant blue and warm. The sun highlighted the granite spires of the Sawtooth Range with a golden glow inviting us to come on up. We parked the truck in the Mono Village High Sierra NASCAR Headquarters designated parking area, and were finally hiking by 5:30 PM.
Matterhorn Peak and the Sawtooth Range
Rising to an elevation of 12,264', Matterhorn Peak is the high point of the dramatic Sawtooth Range of the High Sierras. The Sawtooth ridge line forms the border between Yosemite National Park to the Southwest and the Hoover Wilderness Area to the Northeast. Matterhorn is the pointed summit in the center of the photo. Although it appears to be lower in elevation than the bulky mountain (The Dragtooth) to the right, it is a depth deception and is actually over 100' higher. This picture was taken from the first bench between Twin Lakes and Horse Creek.
Jack climbing up the first bench to Horse Creek canyon
The late afternoon sun was hot and direct as we climbed the often open spaced bench to the more comfortable confines of Horse Creek canyon
Horse Creek
Jack and I were rewarded for our hot and dusty work by the cool and refreshing scene of a tranquil Horse Creek flowing by us.
Climbing up the Headwall of lower Horse Creek Canyon
Our route for the day lies directly behind Jack. We crested the first bench at the bottom of the U shaped valley (Horse Creek Canyon) in the background. The hike along Horse Creek from the top of the bench to the bottom of the headwall is spectacular and ever changing. Some of the boulder field crossings were less than desirable, and made me envious of the simple progress made on skis when I was here for the first time in the snow in May of 1998. The headwall itself is steep and arduous with heavy loads. The best route is in the steep gully just right of Horse Creek.
Friday Night Camp
Jack and I had originally intended on making it to Horse Creek Pass by Friday night. Due to a later than expected start and a couple of route finding errors at the top of the headwall, we opted to set up camp in the flats just below the endless rock fields leading to Horse Creek Pass. We slept sound after a Top Ramen dinner, Vata tea, and incense sticks relaxed our tired bodies. The small creek behind our tent sang gurgling lullabies to us all night long. To this point we had yet to see another soul.
Saturday, July 31, 2004
Jack and I had rolled into our camp well after dark the previous evening, when the surrounding mountains were only dark silhouettes against a fading sky.
Horse Creek and High Sierras at Dawn
When we awoke on Saturday morning we were treated with the beauty of the dawn sunlight casting veils of light over the golden granite on the surrounding mountains. Equally as beautiful was the cold creek and lush landscape where we camped, full of life in a hostile environment.
Horse Creek Peak - Elevation 11,600'
Just above our camp we entered into a long rocky grind up Horse Creek towards Horse Creek Pass. Appropriately named, Horse Creek Peak stands like a grand pyramid, marking the east side of the Pass. Horse Creek draws a definitive geologic line in this high alpine valley. The west (right) side is made up of red and rust colored granite while the east (left) side is a markedly different blue and gray colored stone.
Boulders Fields Forever
While hiking through the endless boulder fields of upper Horse Creek, you can't help but ponder the geologic forces at work. The wheels in my head started turning as I found myself stepping from red boulder to blue boulder, from red to blue, red to blue.
Horse Creek Pass
The goal on the horizon for Jack and I as we labored up the boulder fields. Trails were vague in this area and in general, it seems best to stay on the right side (in the red).
The Tarn at Horse Creek
With some guidance from Rich Steele's trip report to the same area (as found on his fabulous website www.tahoebackcountry.net), we knew there would be a primo camp spot just south of Horse Creek Pass near a tarn. Sure enough we were able to set up our tent on a soft and flat grassy area relatively close to the tarn. We had crossed the border from Hoover Wilderness to Yosemite National Park, and the views south towards the Tioga Pass high country and Tuolumne Meadows were amazing.
The Southeast side of Matterhorn
Not nearly as dramatic as the "seen from the highway" north side of Matterhorn, the southeast face is a bit anti-climatic upon reaching Horse Creek Pass. The climb is a major slog until you crest the ridge. There is no official trail on this side. Our route was directly up the right side of the picture to the skyline where upon we followed the ridge crest to the summit pinnacle. The summit pinnacle is a bit more exciting as it requires some class 3 climbing. Our descent was more direct, we were able to take giant strides in the decomposed granite just to the right of the heart shaped snowfield below the summit.
Summit Ridge of Matterhorn
Jack makes his way from the ridge crest to the base of the summit pinnacle. The views were now equally as incredible as our fatigue.
Summit Scramble
It took a little route finding, but eventually Jack and I found a path up the summit blocks that probably turned Kerouac away.
Top of Matterhorn, with a Yosemite Backdrop
Jack navigates over the final summit blocks with Yosemite National Park unfolding behind him. Although not clearly visible in this picture, Yosemite Valley resides directly in the center of this picture, just below the horizon.
The views from the summit of Matterhorn are exceptional. Below are the following going clockwise from upper left:
To the north towards Bridgeport Valley (lower Twin Lake and Bridgeport Reservoir are visible), Yosemite High Country with Spiller Creek in foreground, North Peak of Whorl Mountain, Sawtooth ridge towards the Northwest
And of course, here are the obligatory summit shots of Jack and myself:
A Screeful Descent!
Scree - our nemesis on the way up, became our friend on the way down. Progress was fast and fun.......as long as we emptied our boots regularly.
Oasis on the Mountain
Even on the harsh, dry scree fields of Matterhorn, life still thrives in small pockets. We came across this incredible and fragile network of mosses and flowers growing on the coarse granite where a small stream of groundwater emerged from the mountainside.
Dinner time back at camp with a view
Jack and I napped for a while after returning from our summit trip. When we awoke it was time to cook a little dinner and relax with the fading daylight. We talked in length and openly about our favorite subjects and stories. Once again we enjoyed pasta dinners, vata tea and the scent of incense. It was a comfortable time and I felt myself reach a deep and seldom found state of total relaxation. Eventually we retired to our warm sleeping bags in the chilled mountain air under a phenomenal canopy of crystal clear stars and constellations.
Click here for Day 3: